Varadero - Very Cuban, Very Real
Yes – you heard me right.
Me, the person who promotes getting as local as possible when traveling, who prefers non-touristy things, and who is likely one of very few Cuba junkies on the planet who couldn´t care less about chilling on the beach -- I´m showing some love to Varadero.
No, I’m not losing my marbles, and I’m not promoting all-inclusive resort-style travel (I grapple with sustainability issues on that front). But I am a little fired up, because I’ve had my fill of the snickers and jeers and sometimes downright mockery directed at Varadero fans, by those who claim that it’s somehow less-Cuban than other destinations. How can that be? It’s in Cuba!
One of the most important lessons I’ve learned after many trips off-the-beaten-path on this island is:
Authentic Cuba is NOT about location – it’s about ENGAGEMENT.
To be clear, I’m not saying Varadero isn’t full of tourists because that would be just…well…loony. But guess what? It’s also full of Cubans.
el campo
The truth is, Varadero is one of the best places to stay if you want to enjoy pretty much any aspect of Cuban culture, including those related to local everyday life. It can serve visitors well as a home base for their trip.
For starters, it’s a mere 25 minutes by car from Juan G. Gomez Airport, and even less if you’re staying at a casa in the town itself. If you like the countryside, travel 15 minutes south of the entrance to the peninsula and POOF! You’re in el campo. Rural Cuba is that close when you’re in Varadero. There’s nothing but acres of rustic farmland, horse-drawn carts, the odd baby goat bouncing about and a plethora of tiny villages to explore, like Cantel and Camarioca (not to be confused with Boca de Camarioca). The best part? You’ll be the only gringo there.
in Varadero
We don’t need to talk about how stunning the beach is – it’s Varadero; enough said. But what is worth mentioning is the fact that during the winter months when the resort beaches are crowded, the section in town near the end of Calle 43 is practically deserted. In other words, if you’re staying at a casa particular, you’ll be close (or even on) a far-less populated slice of paradise. Even if you’re staying at a resort, you don’t need to go far to get away from the crowds and still be on one of the best beaches in the world. And if you go during June, July or August, it will be packed with local families enjoying their summer vacations. How is that not ‘real Cuba’?
If you love nature, you can snorkel just a little bit further west at Playa Coral, or check out the caves at Bellamar (sometimes touristy, but always totally worth it). For die-hard hikers, the incredible Yumuri Valley is just up the Via Blanca on the north edge of Matanzas, where you can try your luck at reaching the summit of Loma del Pan. It’s not for the faint of heart, but the tranquility and the views of the valley on the way up are un-be-lievable. Skip the jeep tour and arrange for your own transportation, or take a private tour so that you can enjoy the drive and explore the quaint little villages that dot the valley on your own terms.
Loma Del Pan
Is it nightlife you’re after? Varadero is chock-full of great restaurants and bars with live music and dancing, like Calle 62 or Casa de la Musica for example. And guess what? There’s no shortage of both tourists and locals patronizing those places. In fact, when my Cuban friends want a crazy night out, the strip in Varadero is often the destination of choice. Dancing, socializing and la fiesta has been an integral part of their culture forever — it doesn’t get more authentic than that.
Are you an arts and culture buff? No hay problema. You can attend performances by Ballet Nacional de Cuba as well as Lizt Alfonso Dance Cuba on a day trip to Havana (or in nearby Matanzas, once renovations at Sauto Theatre are complete). And there’s no denying that the talent performing at some of the resorts is spectacular in their own right. Rumba and Santeria can be experienced all over the island but they’re prevalent in Matanzas and the surrounding area (i.e. all around Varadero) because, as some people believe, that part of Cuban culture originated there. If museums are your thing, take a short side-trip to the city of Cárdenas where you can visit Museo Oscar María de Rojas, one of the most interesting I’ve ever been to.
Cárdenas
If I keep going, this list will be three miles long. My point is, ALL of the things I’ve mentioned are no less real or authentically Cuban than those you can experience in a non-resort area. And they’re all accessible if you’re staying in Varadero – that’s what makes it a super cool place to use as a home base. Travelers can enjoy one of Cuba’s most stunning beaches, with so many of the other goodies practically within arm’s reach.
Varadero isn’t just a stretch of land filled with all-inclusive hotels…it’s also a town full of Cuban people living, working, shopping and spending time with friends and family. At the very least, tapping into a local vibe here can be as simple as having an engaging conversation with the bartender serving your mojitos, or the person cleaning your room. It’s possible you could end up with a glimpse of everyday Cuban life without ever stepping off the property, although I highly recommend doing so. When it comes down to it, meaningful interaction is what counts — not your address.
Those who swear by the mantra “Varadero isn’t real Cuba” should think again, because authentic Cuba is anywhere the locals are. And there are plenty of them in Varadero, which makes it a perfectly acceptable choice as a home base for visitors to Cuba.
Hey — now there’s an idea for a nickname…Base Camp Varadero.
Yep, I like it.