On Your Terms -- The Best Way To See The Yumuri Valley
When the bus from Matanzas winds its way up the Via Blanca on the way to Havana, there's a point at which the uninteresting shrubs that line the highway end abruptly, giving way to the spectacular, vast Yumuri Valley. Its lush landscape spreads south as far as the eye can see, like a massive thick green carpet over rolling hills, studded with more royal palm trees than I’ve ever seen all in one place. No matter how many times I pass that spot, the view still takes my breath away.
View of the Valley from El Mirador
You can view the valley from above from several different points including El Mirador, the snack bar on the west side of the Bacunayagua Bridge, and Iglesia de Monserrate, the church on top of the cliff overlooking the city of Matanzas. But to really discover the true beauty of what lies within, you’ll want to get right down into it and meander through the countryside and the tiny villages. The Hershey train runs through the Valley from Matanzas to Havana and you may have time to take a few photos as it makes its scheduled stops (especially if the train breaks down, which is a distinct possibility) but you’ll be at the mercy of the train schedule. Your best bet is to hire a taxi to take you through at your own pace and if you split the cost with a friend, you can probably do this for under 50CUC each, for a few hours of exploring. I was lucky enough to have my amigo Jorge Felix, a local photographer who's passionate about showing Cuban life through his lens, accompany me. Not only was he a wonderful guide but he offered tips on how to take better photos as well.
Ophelia
The highlight of our drive was stopping at Casa Ophelia – a sprawling ranch on a lovely large property which included a small lake complete with grazing cows, and piglets and chickens running amuck. Her yard was littered with old appliance and car parts, miscellaneous construction material and an old rusty jeep, which I’m certain will be put back into commission someday. Ophelia is the matriarch of the family and the original owner of the home where she lives with her son and grandson. After some gentle coaxing and a dose of Jorge’s charm, she felt comfortable enough to allow us to take photos and to share a few stories about her rural life. Even though Cubans are known for their openness and willingness to share, it's still such a privilege to be allowed into their personal space and to record what we find there.
Pina de Raton
Nearing the end of our drive, we made a stop at a little souvenir stand and “typical Cuban ranch”, as described by the State-run tour companies promoting Yumuri Valley jeep excursions. We had the place to ourselves (the bonus of doing your own thing off the tourist trail), so we had time to chat with the locals working there about life and business in the valley. I had my first taste of Piña de Raton, a delicious type of mini-pineapple, and had just enough time to chase it down with a glass of guarapa con ron (sugar cane juice with rum) when we heard engines in the distance. It was the sound of the jeep caravan ten or twelve vehicles long, carrying a throng of sunburnt tourists to their last stop after a marathon day of boating, snorkelling and horseback riding. That was our queue to make our exit.
The Yumuri Valley may not have any of the mogotes (unique, steep-sided hill formations) which draw so many travelers to Viñales, arguably the most famous valley on the island. But Yumuri possesses its own indelible charm -- winding roads (some no more than a dirt path), quaint villages, sprawling pineapple fields, guajiros riding their horses and carts, and tons of shades of green in every direction. A much slower pace than that of the city, it’s peaceful and serene, and definitely worth taking a private tour to observe life in the Valley and experience real tranquility.
Tranquilo